Chioggia – Pellestrina –  Lido – Cavalino

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Ravno zaključujeva drugi dan vožnje po Islands and logoons of the Adriatic Coast, oziroma današnja Ciclovia delle Isole di Venezia.

Chioggia

Začela sva v slikoviti Chioggii. Kanali in hiše, ki štrlijo iz njih so ravno take kot v Benetkah. Še boljše so, kajti tu se po ulicah lahko voziš s kolesom, v Benetkah pa malo morgen. Ni sicer jodlarjev v gondolah, so pa tu klepetavi in radovedni domačini. Starih in zanimivih stavb je v mestu kolikor hočeš. Med njimi je tudi ura v stolpu cerkve sv. Andreja, ki velja za najstarejšo na svetu. Na stolpu piše X in XI.

Lido

Za to, da se preko kanalov prepeljeva na otoke beneške lagune, plačava 20€ po osebi za celodnevno karto. Kolesi plačaš posebej, vsak preskok z  otoka na otok po 1€ za bicikel. Alora ventitre euro chiascuno.

Prvo pristaneva na Pellestrini. To je čudovit, slikovit, ozek otoček, posejan s starimi hišami kričečih barv. Deluje kot, da se je tu čas ustavil pred sto leti. Vse je na izi. Tu se verjetno še ribe bolj počasi ujamejo v mrežo. Tako je lepo, da sva še prehitro v portu, kjer že čaka trajekt za otok Lido.
Pellestrina

Plovba je bila kratka, saj smo se prepeljali samo čez kanal. Ker je Lido precej večji od Pellestrine, je tu tudi več prometa, več industrije, več ljudi in večji džumbus. Z vaporetom številka 14 kmalu pobegneva na celino, v Porto Sabbia.

Po označeni kolesarski poti Percorso delle Verdure, po naše zelenjavarska pot, jo mahava v smeri Lido Jesolo. Voziva predvsem po kolesarski poti E3, ki gre ob kanalih, skozi mokrišča z neštetimi vrstami ptic. Imava precej dela s slikanjem. Gostemu prometu, ki poteka nekaj sto metrov vstran se samo sladko smejeva. Uživava 100 na uro.

Kdaj sva prevozila današnjih 50 km ne veva. Vse je minilo tako hitro.

Jesolo

Fotoalbum: KLIK

Ravenna – Chioggia

Fotoalbum: KLIK

Ravenna

V načrtu za današnji dan je bilo, da prevoziva 90 km. Ma potem sva morala videti še nekaj lagun, nekaj naravnih parkov in ubrati še par svojih poti. 100 ? 120 ? Neeee. Pod noč, ko sva prispela v Chioggio sva imela za seboj 135 km. In to kakšnih. Veter v prsa, veter v bok, beg pred nevihto pol kilometra nazaj pod en cestni podvoz, vožnjo po mivkasti čiklabile (ma za mtb, ne pa za naše obtežene stroje) skozi naravni park, zaraščen kolovoz v nevihti po nasipu, … Ma ni, da ni. Ampak bilo je lepo.

Skoraj cel dan sva vozila po naravi. Naselij skoraj ni bilo. Pregledala sva tako desni Pad, kot tudi levega. Tičev milijontih vrst kolikor hočeš. Nekaj vrst sva le prepoznala. Tiste bolj domače. Iz središča Ravenne je pot proti severu lepo označena. Kolesarska pot Adriabike Ravenna – Venezia ima naslednjih15 km, vse do Marina Terme v vsakem križišču rjavo usmerjevalno tablico. Voziš predvsem po urejenih kolesarskih poteh. Na izhodu iz Ravene smo te poti uporabljali le slovenci in mnogo črncev ( ma unih prav črno črnih. Kongo?) ki so prihajali od nekje v mesto. Potem nekaj deset km voziš po občutku, zemljevidu ali gps sledi. Če te žge sonce v desno si na pravi poti. Takrat je morje na desni in pelješ proti severu. Dopoldan seveda.
v delti Pada

Ob prihodu v Marina di Ravenna nama pot prekriža ena ogromna ladja, naložena s kontejnerji. Leno se je vlekla po ravenskem kanalu proti odprtem morju. Tu sva si privoščila trajekt, ki človeku skrajša pot čez ta kanal. 1€ in v hipu si čez. Dež naju ima rad. Midva tudi njega, zato sva planirala do metra natančno kje naju bo ujel. Kako bi sicer našla edini nadstrešek (razmajano, pločevinasto avtobusno postajališče) točno takrat, ko se je ulilo. Po nekaj pomarančah časa, sva že vozila po presneti mivki, v smeri kraja Goro. Ta je že v delti reke Pad in v relativni bližini je edini prehod čez vodo, daleč naokoli. Sledijo nasipi po Po destra (desni Pad) prehod kanalov preko pontonskih mostov in neskončno dolgi nasipi tik nad reko, vse do Taglio di Po. Tu celo pot piha kot prasica. Za nama je dobrih 110 km in počasi imava dovolj. Greva na glavno cesto.
nasip ob “desnem” Padu

Kamijon za kamijonom. Zelo prav nama pride prijazen domačin, ki naju iz neznosno prometne Strade Statale preusmeri na vzporedno podeželsko pot. Ta naju ob reki Brenta varno pripelje vse do prenočišča v Chioggi. Možakar je kar ob glavni cesti ustavil avto, se med čakanjem na prevajalca, ki je malo zaostal, že pri Lilici pozanimal od kje sva in kam greva ter naju lepo poslal na vzporedno vaško cesto.
pontonski most

Ti italijani niso takšni kot so tisti “naši” italijani, ki jih poznamo od zmeraj. S temi našimi ob meji mora biti nekaj narobe. Nekaj jih mora mučiti. Ali manjvrednostni kompleks ali pa kakšna drugačna travma. V zadnjem tednu imava opravka s samimi prijaznimi, umirjenimi, nič glasnimi prebivalci polotoka. Niti sledu ni o kakšnem repenčenju, vpitju, ošabnosti, kot opaziš pri sosedih ob meji. Dobričine. Ku mi, a!

135 km in celih 7 ur in pol vrtenja pedal. Altro ke uni na Girotu.
delta Pad

Fotoalbum: KLIK

Riminiravenna

Fotoalbum; KLIK

Besedi sta skupaj, ker je tudi v naravi dejansko tako. Od Riminija do Ravenne je ena sama plaža. Dobesedno. No, če greš po cesti SS16 tega ne vidiš, ma tudi nič drugega ne. Prva svetla točka dneva je bilo srečanje s Tai Chi. Pod nadstreškom ene od malih trgovin sta dva možakarja, italijan in azijec, izvajala formo 24. Malo sva postala, malo ocenjevala in malo pokramljala.
Cesenatico

Druga svetla točka je bilo nekaj tisoč kolesarjev, ki so v Cesenatiku imeli svojo dirko. Lilica je na ograji pred ciljem navijala in hupala s trombo kot, da sem jaz tekmoval. Bili so tekmovalci, bili so novinarji, bile so žene z otroki, bile so stojnice in bila je grozna gužva. Bilo je lepo.
biči reciklaža

Tretji svetel dogodek je bil Cesenatico. Čudovito mestno jedro, ki utripa ob morskem kanalu. V njem pa v vetru nihajo raznobarvna, pastelna jadra starih jadrnic, ki so tu zasidrane.

Četrti svetel dogodek je kraj Cervia. Že med pripravo na potovanje je padel v oči in bil na spisku enega od “must to see”. Poleg starega mestnega jedra, so izstopali predvsem stari stolp in nekdanja skladišča soli, saj je bil kraj enkrat v 16 stoletju utrjen ravno sredi solin. So jih namreč pirati iz Alžirije nekaj zafrkavali in jih vozili prodajat v svoj kraj. Ljudi, ne soli.
Cervia

In še peti svetel dogodek, to je Ravenna. Lepa za pogledat, še lepša za poslikat in s kolesom prevozit. V maju. Kako mora biti tu v sezoni, raje ne pomislim. Verjetno nekaj takega kot v Benetkah za karneval.

Utrujena in ožgana, vendar zadovoljna z dnevom, zbirava zadnje atome moči in piševa vsak svoj tekst ter briševa neuspele posnetke in fotografije. Dan zaključujeva brez višincev, le z 79 km lenobno prevožene poti.

Ravenna

Fotoalbum; KLIK

San Marino 301

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proti San Marinu

Zakaj 301? Ker je že od takrat neodvisen. V današnjih mejah pa od 13. stoletja. Napoleon ga je sicer nekaj dražil in snubil, pa se ni dal prepričati. Tudi italijanom ne, ko so v 19. stoletju sestavljali sedanjo državo. In ja. Bil je prva eu država s komunisti na oblasti. 1945 leta. Kljub nevtralnosti so ga zafrkavali tako nemci, kot kasneje zavezniška letala z bombami. Libertas San Marino.

 To pišejo o San Marinu drugi. Mi2 lahko poveva, da sva bila od njega oddaljena le slabih 30 km. Kolo pod rit in piči v San Marino. Kljub temu, da je državica majhna ni niti tako enostavno priti v center, kot zgleda. Vzpon se začne že v Italiji in ne poneha vse do vhoda Buca di San Francesco, pred katerim mestni redar izvaja predstavo z usmerjanjem prometa na prehodu za pešce. Elegantno maha, pleše, se vrti in prijazno ogovarja tako pešce, kot voznike. Faca od človeka. Na vprašanje ali lahko v bližini parkirava kolesi, naju z njimi kar napoti skozi stolp v mesto, ker, da bo ta cesta čez par ur itak zaprta za promet. Izmučena od višincev in od nabijanja sonca med vzponom, le dahneva “gracije” in že se prebijava, v glabnem med ruskimi turisti, po strmih, kamnitih ulicah utrjenega mesta. Kam? Gor. Dokler gre gor je vse v redu. Od tam se potem vidi kaj je spodaj in kam naprej.

 V prvem stolpu je razgled za umret. Super se vidi na celo državico in vse do Riminija in Ravene na Jadranski obali. Pogled na griče v notranjosti, na zahod, je še bolj jasen. Tam mora biti tudi lepo.    Stražarskih stolpov, kamnitih stopnic, visokega obzidja, nad prepadnimi stenami speljanih poti in nevsiljivih prodajalcev se nikoli ne naveličaš tako, da mesto zapustiva šele kasno popoldan. Za cilj spusta s 750 m nadmorske višine v dolino in nazaj v Rimini, sva izbrala cesto, ki vodi po dolini reke Marecchia. Na vrhu hribov na levi strani doline so naju pozdravljali obrisi gradu Montebello in gradu Due Tori. Prav blizu na desni pa so se ponosno razkazovala obzidja gradu Rocca Veruccio.

Promet je bil tu, napram tistemu pri vzponu, redek in umirjen. In že spet se je pokazala prijaznost in ustrežljivost domačinov. Na edinem razcepu na katerem sva bila v dvomu o smeri nadaljevanja se je z bližje njivice oglasil mož in naju je brez karkoli ga vprašat, napotil na pravo cesto. Spotoma pa še na hitro razložil, zakaj je to boljša, krajša in prava pot v Rimini. Jaz mu nisem povedal ne zakaj sem se ustavil, ne kam bi rad šel. Eni znajo.

V parku Frederica Fellinija, ob lungomare, še spijeva eno pivo in si čestitava za v vročini prevoženih 73 km ter premaganih 750 višincev z 18 km dolgega, nad 10% strmega vzpona. Tam je bila tudi ena teriferika, ma se mi zdi, da ne bi peljala biciklov na vrh.

Fotoalbum: KLIK

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Senigallia – Fano – Pesaro

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Vsako od njih ima svojo zanimivo zgodovino. Vse so najprej porihtali rimljani ter za njimi v srednjem veku še Malatesta. Potem je malo zaoral Napoleon, za njim pa še zavezniška letala. Par tisoč let je kar dolga doba.
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In sva šla. Najprej do utrdbe Rocca Rovere sredi Senigallie. Sledila so prijetna križarjenja po srednjeveških ulicah od cerkve do cerkve. Nisem molil. Ne znam. Pa tudi, če bi, bi ne smel, sicer bi bil še sedaj tam. So za vsakim vogalom. Cerkve namreč. Pa tudi zombiji. Ma o teh raje enkrat drugič. Sva skočila še na Piazza Roma, vendar trg preurejajo in brez lopate v roki nimaš vstopa.

Na poti proti mestu Fano naju točno opoldne dohiti prva ploha. Se jo odkriževa z enim dobrim italijanskim kapučinom. In je šla. Ploha. Kelnarca pravi, da je do Fana še enih 15 km. Midva, ki iščeva obalne poti in cestice je normalno, da narediva krepko več.
Pesaro

Fano. Tu sva. Mesto krasi trdnjava, ki so jo vladarji Malatesta zgradili na nekdanjih rimskih temeljih Cezarja Julija Avgusta. Tudi tu, enako kot v Senigalliji, so se bolj izkazali rimljani. Njihovi zidovi utrdbe so vsi iz lepo obdelanega, klesanega kamna, medtem, ko so Malatestini iz 16. stoletja v glavnem opečnati. Bronasti Julij Avgust še vedno pazi kdo vstopa skozi njegova Porta Maggiore, glavna mestna vrata. Julij, hvala, da si sezidal tako dobra vrata, ki so nama danes, v že drugem nalivu, nudila streho nad glavo.  Ave Cezar.
Fano

Ulice starega dela mesta Fano so ozke, visoke in temno rijave, saj so zgrajene iz samih zidakov. Enako kot obzidje. V dežju se posloviva od Avgusta in kičaste plaže na poti v Pesaro nama spet rišejo nasmeh na obrazu. Tako zelo so smešne in umetne. Delujejo depilirano, nališpano in nabarvano. Očitno nočemo, da so naravne ampak po trendu mode. In jih zato tako peglamo. V resnici so lepe, neokrnjene, divje. To spoznaš na predelih, kjer jih upravljalci še niso začeli pripravljati na novo sezono. Narava jih je čez zimo naredila take, kot v resnici so. Te, pripravljene pa so … depilirane. Kot nekatere.
plažeeeeee …..

V Pesaru prehitiva že tretji naliv in nevihti se s kozarčkom najinega domačega Jagra smejeva iz tople postelje.

Prevozila sva 46 km in odkljukala tri krajevne nevihte.

Fotoalbum: KLIK

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Ancona, 19.maj 2016
Fotoalbum KLIK

Regionalni vlaki, ki ne izpustijo priložnosti, da se ne bi ustavili na prav vsaki postaji na poti, so dostavili najina bicikla v Ancono. Vlaki sicer niso po zadnji modi, so pa hitri in udobni. Na ravninah smo šibali vse di 155 km/h. Vsak regionalni vlak ima oddelek za kolesa na koncu kompozicije. Enkrat je to spredaj, takoj za hrbtom strojevodje, drugič zadaj, na repu vlaka. Odvisno od smeri vožnje. Potnikov je precej, predvsem pred velikimi mesti, kot so Benetke, Padova, Bologna. S sprevodniki sva na “ti”, saj naju imajo zaradi moje železničarske FIP vozovnice, za svoje. Ker smo ravno pri karti: cena za relacijo Gorica – Ancona je 38€, plus 3,5€ vsak bicikel. Karta velja 24 ur, od trenutka potrditve na zelenem avtomatu.

Vse od Padove se vozimo proti jugu. Na levi strani je neskončna ravnina, posejana s pšeničnimi polji, ki jih občasno sekajo pasovi drugih poljščin in daljnovodi. Na desni so v daljavi vidni hribi, ki glede na zemljevid, kmalu preidejo v Apeninsko gorovje. Ljudje, ki živijo na desni strani proge daljnovodov nimajo. Med vožnjo se kratkočasimo z učenjem novega jezika. Slovenščine, nastale z gugltranjslejt iz italijanščine.

Sva v Anconi. Končno na biciklu. Vse bi rada videla. Vse kar so zapustili tako rimljani, kot Napoleon, ki je na prelomu v devetnajsto stoletje zavzel tudi to pokrajino . Tu so srednjeveške cerkve, duomo na vrhu hriba, kip enega od Klemencov (Clemente XII) na Piazzi Plebiscita, fontane in predvsem čudovita obala Passetto s svojimi jamami. Medtem, ko sva jo iskala, sva pridelala 300 višincev. In potem nesla kolesa do obale in seveda tudi strmo nazaj na vh hiba. Z vso prtljago, biškoti in pivo vred. Domačin nama je še pokazal kje je Piazza Roma, saj sva hotela videti vodnjak s trinajstimi pipami, Le Tredici Cannelle. Namreč, kdor se hoče ponovno vrniti v Ancono, mora piti vodo iz tega vodnjaka. Itak, da sva pila.

Do prenočišča v Senigalliji ni daleč. Ravna cesta, predvsem tik ob obali. Levo hoteli, desno oštevilčene plaže. Vse pošlihtano in v vrsti. Tu bi trpela. Oba. Je pa ja lepše nesti na rami bicikel s prtljago 100 metrov nad morje.

Fotoalbum KLIK

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